Monster Zero x SciFi Japan - Archive Only

It's happened to every collector once or twice. Either a figure fell and broke or you bought something and it's either broke, damaged, or you planned to fix it myself. This just recently happened to me. I found my last missing Bandai Creation 6" figure, the '93 MechaGodzilla. Because it was only ever released in Wave 2, it's become a bit rare. Most sell extremely overpriced now, even ones not in mint. I got a used one in a figure lot for a measly $13.

The problem...

To say it had its paint problems is an understatement. It was obviously banged around.




And it had several paint scrapes of various colors.

I sighed at first when I realized the extent, but figured it was better than nothing and would do for the time being. Then, at work, we were given some new sharpie markers to repair similar colored problems on our resin cabinets. I had the idea to try it out on MechaGodzilla and, while not a perfect fix, looks A LOT better than it did.




For now, until the figure is rereleased or I come across an even better one for less than $15, I'll probably just keep this one around.

It may have been on here, or it may have been on YouTube, but for the Bandai Mogera with it's notoriously breakable antennae, i saw someone fix a broken figure by replacing those with sowing pins (the kind with the head on the end).. It looked perfect.

Managed to fix up my vintage Gymara figure from Ultraman 80. I could have just gotten a new one with a better horn for like $20, but I wanted to see if I could fix this one up. I think it looks well enough.




Before. My main focus was fixing that horn, which has been an eyesore on the shelf for far too long.

Just wanted to contribute that when using paint, to use acrylics. Stay away from latex based paints, they don't apply well on plastics. Enamel based has potential to melt the plastic but can be used if you coated the first layer with acrylic, so read the label and know your chemistry.

Cracked or broken figures, I would recommend Apoxie Sculpt. I love it because you just dip your fingers in water and smooth out the Apoxie until it matches the texture and surface of the figure.

Also, if you need advice, pm me or post here. I'm a self-certified cosmetic plastic surgeon of kaiju

Uhhh, not to nitpick, but latex and acrylics are the same thing(water based), and will work fine on just about anything, as long as they are properly thinned. I have used them on plastics, vinyl, etc., etc. In fact, they are all I use anymore. And if you should happen to have a bottle dry out, a little rubbing alcohol will bring the paint back to life, just like new. In fact, when using water based paints, rubbing alcohol is your best friend. In addition to thinning paints, it's also great for clean up, whether it be an airbrush or conventional brush. One thing you DO NOT want to use on vinyl figures is enamel(oil based) paints, such as Testors. these will react with the vinyl and never completely dry. As for fillers, it depends on what the job is. If it's something mechanical, such as an aircraft, tank, or 'mech, where all I want is to fill a seam, I tend to use Squadron as it's easy to spread flat. Now, if it's something like a figure or monster kit(where some sculpting will be required along with seam filling)I favor Milliput. It works like clay and can be cleaned(and blended)with water. Although, to be honest, I have friends that have used standard 2 part epoxy putty available at any hardware store with favorable results. Like anything else, it all comes down to personal preference...